A Road with No Real Route

It’s been six weeks since I launched the final leg of my Japan trip in a campervan. I had a rough plan—to head south, chase the cherry blossoms north—but that evolved into a nearly full circumnavigation of the country. I didn’t plan every detail; I just kept a direction in mind and let each day shape itself. My routine became simple: search for local restaurants, climbing gyms, or onsen. I ended up hitting an onsen every day!

Onsen: My Daily Anchor

I explored all kinds of onsens. My favorites were in the ¥600–¥800 range: they typically offered shampoo, conditioner, body wash, 2–3 indoor baths, an outdoor pool, a sauna, waterfall-style jets, and a cold bath around 10–15 °C. The pricier ¥2,000 places came with towel rentals, but since I always carried mine, I preferred the better value of the cheaper ones. Onsens were also a retreat for me. A place to soak in the day and reflect.

Climbing Gyms: Community and Connection

Local climbing gyms quickly became highlights of the trip. Two, in particular, stood out:

Bee mee nee WaBo in Wakayama: a spacious, art-walled gym with driftwood accents and 4.5 m high walls (around 380 m²). The staff and locals were welcoming, and they even offered a free crash pad rental when I mentioned wanting to boulder at Kasagi.

Climbing Park Home in Izumo: when I shared my campervan adventure, the owner invited me out for a rope climbing day with his friends—a genuine connection and a memorable experience.

Outdoor Bouldering: Reality Check

I visited Kasagi and Mitake which are some of the most popular bouldering destinations in Japan. As a low-to-mid-level climber, I found the easy problems underwhelming—dusty and overgrown. Only one V4 looked well-maintained, but it was a highball (~20 ft), which I wasn’t ready for with my pad setup.
The silver lining was meeting Koji, a local rope climber in Kasagi who later guided me through Ogawayama’s slab routes—a real connection that made the outdoor experience much richer.

Lessons Learned

Japan’s outdoor bouldering scene isn’t what brought me here—but the gyms, the food, the onsens, and rope climbing all resonated deeply. I discovered I’m not an aimless wanderer; I like structure—even if it’s loose planning. Sorting through each week’s possibilities brings me satisfaction. This campervan chapter wasn’t my favorite part of the trip, but it taught me perhaps the most: embrace uncertainty, cherish the connections, and anchor yourself in rituals—like climbing and daily onsens.